Ah i don’t even care about it being loud, I got a garage my printer lives in when I’m doing ASA and ABS anyway. Sounds good thanks!

Good to know. Yeah I already cal my printer for XYZ scaling semi regularly when I’m doing really critical stuff and anything I’m doing over 200mm I already plan for tolerances and match-drilling holes out. Sounds like I’m moving this to my Christmas wishlist.

Conservatives don’t give a fuck about their supposed morals when it’s personally beneficial for them.

How do you like your 08Max? I’ve been looking into getting a large format printer for automotive parts and it’s one of the most cost effective ones I can find on the market. Would like to know how it does for accuracy, eg how much fiddling do you need to get parts within a mm tolerance. And not sure on sovol’s firmware and parts availability.

I’d have to add my own enclosure heater but I’m already building a design to add that to my x1c so that’s not a big issue.

Yeah, most sheet metal roofs are like that. You have to be careful and step only where the joists are. Understandable if you don’t want to go up there though

Gonna have to monkey climb on the roof and probably straddle the main pitch to reach that lamp. I guarantee that’s how it got installed in the first place lol.

Wouldn’t even need to be a solar node. There’s a 120v circuit to the lamp if you wanted.

Unhinged theory: he’s going to divorce and deport his “unamerican” wife and then marry Charlie Kirk’s widow for the PR on a 2028 presidential run.

“Yeah lemme just use the same PM three times in a row. Surely this time will be different!”

What’s next, Eureka?

Challenge accepted.

Well seeing as the brim is pretty smooth and properly filled I’m guessing it’s not a machine bed leveling thing.

Wondering if your print preset is messed up. Go to the Quality tab with advanced settings in orca, and near the bottom there should be “bottom surface flow ratio” as well as “elephants foot compensation” (i think, going completely from memory here) You may need to turn up the flow ratio and/or down the foot comp to get the bottom layer squeezed together properly, the defaults with the sv08 profile might not be right for your particular plate.

Holy shit I haven’t seen a Fringe meme in the wild for… At least 5, maybe 6 years???

Is it underextrusion/too high gaps or overextrusion mountains pushed up by the nozzle? It’s hard to tell if there is actual space between the plastic lines. Is this leading to print fails or bad first layer quality when the part is removed?

A tactic I’ve noticed in Orcaslicer, when using Bambu presets on my x1c, is to slightly overextrude the first layer. This forces the plastic solidly into a textured bed surface ensuring you get maximum hold. This leaves the first layer looking kinda shitty on top but fully filled in underneath. And it doesn’t do this for the brim either.

Then all the decisions could be 5-4 to get fucked instead of 6-3 to get fucked!

So what I’m hearing is “I don’t wash my penis properly so the air its been in stinks”

I’d run it for the prototype, just for funsies, until a shop can make the real part or the plastic breaks. It might last longer than you think.

And at significantly lower transmit power too. Ubiquiti 5ac ptp rigs use like 8w, 802.11ah can make a link with under a watt. Sure it won’t be fast at all but if you’re doing a remote embedded device on a solar panel, it makes a huge difference.

Oh no! The Mississippi Legislature is going to be missing all of their GOP legislators!

Yet 42 million people need food stamps to not starve to death

This is not the green text I was looking for, dumb christian spambot.

The only difference between men and boys is the size of their toys.